Andy's Hunch on What to Munch
Sir T, Pantera, Teenager, Sandy Beach, and more, Andy's got a few ideas about what to eat. Has had them for a while, actually, going back fifteen years to when he used to write this column in The Sphere. And now he and his wife have their own restaurant in New Berlin. It's called Lagniappe Brasserie. You should eat there.
The importance of being earnest and the appreciation of eel.
With the winter season approaching we all look forward to the fortune of our friendly foodstuff, the eel. Not just for fertility anymore, the American eel, besides having a neat blue sheen and a very fancy skin, is the richest sea fellow I have ever met. They help the ecosystem by eating carrion, and, if hungry enough, their own family. Having a fat ratio of thirty percent, this munchable packs the same goodness as a USDA choice beef shoulder or chuck, as our apron flaunting butcher friends like to tell us.
Not to be longwinded on (ground) meat varietals, but a little discussion may steer us into a new age of enlightenment. Sirloin is lean, encompassing the tenderloin, ribeye, and striploin, about 10% fat and 90% lean (meat), and what we call ground sirloin. The round or butt of the carcass is 20% fat and 80% lean, whence named ground round. Our fun loving shoulder clod is 30/70, and that is a ratio for deliciousness. Imagine a bratwurst simmered in beer and fire grilled. These brats are traditionally made from “ground chuck.” Imagine many smiling faces eating these. Now picture these faces eating a brat made from sirloin, sad, forlorn, and wondering why this was is in their hand and why by golly it tastes like chicken. This is the magic of chuck and this is where our grown up elver comes in.
Fish in general is lean, flaky, and not sought after in this neck of the woods unless it is battered and fried. Elvers, or baby eels, are quite a delicacy but a little squeamish for some, as well as and ethical issue. Let them grow up though, and these chubby wonders will more than amuse your palate. To prepare, make a thin incision around the neck to separate the skin from the head and body. Firmly grasp the head with a kitchen towel (some prefer a rope lasso) and begin to pull downward. Tricky going at first, but after an inch or two the satisfaction is prevalent. Save the skin to make a fine wallet! Then split the belly closest to the head line and eviscerate. Rinse this out and pat the eel down. Cut into three-inch segments, salt and pepper, dredge in flour, and sauté a la meuniere. Garnish with lemon and a crisp glass of sauvignon blanc.
BERRY MOON 2008 An Afrikan Hunch
FLOWER MOON 2008 Chartreuse!
PINK MOON 2008 Cinco de Mayo
SNOW MOON 2008 Wanna Whole Lotta Lamb
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