What can be more delicious than mutton? The obvious answer would be nothing.

Actually, I prefer lamb for its scrumptious youngness, and the fact is you really cannot procure their older kin in times like these. There are also praises of Mediterranean still-born lamb but I am not ready to rob that cradle yet.

The titans of these creatures reside in Colorado and Great Britain. Massive farms and industries gifting us elegantly formed ribeye chops gleaming with their humongous eye.

A giant price must also team up with their oh so giant tenderness, though. And why pay transport and marketers to bring them here? Being a local guy with a local restaurant, I prefer to buy as close as I can to home. Delavan, Wisconsin, is close, and Pinn-Oak Ridge Farms is where I get my lamb. Steve and Darlene grow these guys and spend a good amount of time with them.

That’s Steve on the right.

You can call him on Monday and some lambs come Thursday. He says they process and raise his lamb in God’s country. Lamb of God?

I do not think you should cook it right away though when you get it. Meat needs to enzymatically break down, tenderize, and develop a flavor. Not "the leg slipped out of my hands because of a slimy odorous film on the outside" kind of flavor, but a "umm, that smells like rich sweet meat" kind. 3-4 weeks is good.

These cloven-hooved lovelies may be sacrilege to some, but for me it is a treat I will not pass over. We like the girls, too, and will feature a sheep milk crème brulee this August at our Wisconsin state fair.

Barbecued Denver Ribs

Ingredients :

Barbecue Sauce:
1 lb. Celery, Large Dice
1 lb. Onion, Large Dice
8 oz. Bacon
2 Cloves of Garlic Minced
1 qt. Chili Sauce
1 qt. Ketchup
1 cup Orange Juice
2 oz. Horseradish
2 oz. Brown Sugar
2 oz. Honey
1 T. Hot Sauce
1 T. Lemon Juice
Salt & Pepper to taste

Lamb Racks:
10 lbs. Wisconsin Lamb Ribs, breast bone off
4 oz. Ginger Root
1 1/2 T. Dry Mustard
Salt & Pepper to taste
1 cup Orange Marmalade

Preparation : Place bacon in braising pan. Add onion and celery and sauté until translucent. Add garlic, black pepper and salt, sauté briefly.

Add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil, simmer gently for 30 minutes, reserve. Season lamb racks with freshly ground ginger root, dry mustard, salt and black pepper both sides. Preferably overnight.

Brown liberally on a charcoal grill, oven broiler, or in a pan with oil. Remove from heat and baste with orange marmalade. Place lamb in a large braising pan and cover one half of the way with the barbeque sauce.

Cover completely and cook in a low oven, 300-325 degrees until tender, the meat will begin to pull away from the bone, approximately one hour. Remove any excess grease from the sauce, brush the rack with additional sauce and serve.

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